I have a friend coming from out of town for a while. He has already been warned that he will be sat down in front of a TS board and forced to play! I’ve been thinking about the various things to teach him aside from the mechanics of the game.
It seemed like a topic worth posting, for future teachings of the game.
The purpose ofthis levitra prijs post is to provide a list of some very obvious missteps that a new player could make, that a veteran player would never make, simply due to knowledge of the deck. It is NOT a strategy guide (although a few minor tips will be made), nor is it a list of the most powerful cards to look out for (although some of the cards are very powerful).
Fidel: “Remove all US Influence in Cuba. USSR gains sufficient Influence in Cuba for Control.”
Notes: It doesn’t make a lot of sense for a US player to put points into Cuba until this card has been played, spaced, or whatever.
Vietnam Revolts: “Add 2 USSR Influence in Vietnam…“
Notes: It would be fairly unusual for a US player to put points in Vietnam, but it is very good to know that this card is out there, and is a shortcut to Thailand for the USSR
Blockade: “Unless the US immediately discards a ’3′ or more value Operations card, eliminate all US Influence from West Germany.”
Notes: This can be fairly devastating to the US if it goes off. Try to hold a 3 op card until Blockade has been played. Ideally make it one of your opponents cards if possible. De-Stalinization makes a great choice
Nasser: “Add 2 USSR Influence in Egypt. Remove half (rounded up) of the US Influence in Egypt.”
Notes: If you put points into Egypt (for the purposes of scoring, or getting to Libya, or whatever) they will very likely get halved. That’s it.
De Gaulle leads France: “Remove 2 US Influence in France, add 1 USSR Influence.”
Notes: Without getting too deep into strategic options for this card, be aware of it before putting influence into France.
Defectors: “Play in Headline Phase to cancel USSR Headline Event, including a Scoring Card. Canceled card returns to discard pile.”
Notes: USSR needs to be wary of headlining big bombs until this card comes out, particularly on Turn 3 if you haven’t drawn it. After that it’s tough to track.
War Cards: There is a class of card in the game called “War Cards”. They are: Arab-Israeli War, Korean War, Brush War, Indo-Pakistani War, Iran-Iraq War. Note that Arab-Israeli War and Korean War are USSR only, where as the other 3 are neutral (allowing either player to benefit).
They all follow the same rules, which are: Roll 4-6 and you get to take all your opponents influence and replace it with your own. However for each neighbouring country that the defender controls, the attacker gets -1 to the die roll.
Arab-Israeli War notes: This one is particularly bad for the US. If it gets played successfully early enough it can SEVERELY hurt your Middle East presence. Taking control of cheap surrounding countries is advised (but don’t forget about Nasser). Additionally this is the only “War Card” in the game where control of the actual country (namely: Israel) also adds a -1 to the roll. So controlling Lebanon, Jordan and Israel makes it literally impossible for the roll to succeed.
Indo-Pakistani War notes: Whoever ends up controlling Iran needs to be wary when spreading out into Western Asia until this card has been played.
That’s it for now. Note that this is by no means a complete list of all cards that should be tracked. But getting past the Early War things get far more murky. For example, Muslim Revolution can cause a huge swing in the Middle East. But depending on when it comes up (and who draws it) there is a great deal of variability in it’s usage and effectiveness. Since this list is for beginners, I wanted to keep it short, and keep it as simple as possible.