Tech Update

As part of the features that I started this page with, a complete database of the cards of the game was required. Well, I finally finished up the work required to put a bit of lipstick on the pig, and have added a filterable database to the site.

The list is fully searchable by name, text, ops, war and superpower.

You can access thenew levitra prijzen database via the link “TS Card List” at the top of the page, or by this link http://twilightrecap.com/cards/. I’m pretty happy with how it works, but there a few things that still bug me that I’ll be fixing over time. Suggestions welcome!!

Note: This is my first foray into AJAX programming, so if you run into any problems (such as browser compatibility issues) please let me know.

Also I added some pretty good updates to the game record, including some display fixes, coup roll summary, and the ability to break down the #’s by turn (or turns). It’s still not even close to what I envisioned when I started, but that will take time.

You can see a sample here (of the next game I need to do a write-up of).



Beginners Folly

I have a friend coming from out of town for a while. He has already been warned that he will be sat down in front of a TS board and forced to play! I’ve been thinking about the various things to teach him aside from the mechanics of the game.

It seemed like a topic worth posting, for future teachings of the game.

The purpose ofthis levitra prijs post is to provide a list of some very obvious missteps that a new player could make, that a veteran player would never make, simply due to knowledge of the deck. It is NOT a strategy guide (although a few minor tips will be made), nor is it a list of the most powerful cards to look out for (although some of the cards are very powerful).

To begin…

Fidel: “Remove all US Influence in Cuba. USSR gains sufficient Influence in Cuba for Control.”
Notes: It doesn’t make a lot of sense for a US player to put points into Cuba until this card has been played, spaced, or whatever.

Vietnam Revolts: “Add 2 USSR Influence in Vietnam…
Notes: It would be fairly unusual for a US player to put points in Vietnam, but it is very good to know that this card is out there, and is a shortcut to Thailand for the USSR

Blockade: “Unless the US immediately discards a ’3′ or more value Operations card, eliminate all US Influence from West Germany.”
Notes: This can be fairly devastating to the US if it goes off. Try to hold a 3 op card until Blockade has been played. Ideally make it one of your opponents cards if possible. De-Stalinization makes a great choice :)

Nasser: “Add 2 USSR Influence in Egypt. Remove half (rounded up) of the US Influence in Egypt.”
Notes: If you put points into Egypt (for the purposes of scoring, or getting to Libya, or whatever) they will very likely get halved. That’s it.

De Gaulle leads France: “Remove 2 US Influence in France, add 1 USSR Influence.”
Notes: Without getting too deep into strategic options for this card, be aware of it before putting influence into France.

Defectors: “Play in Headline Phase to cancel USSR Headline Event, including a Scoring Card. Canceled card returns to discard pile.”
Notes: USSR needs to be wary of headlining big bombs until this card comes out, particularly on Turn 3 if you haven’t drawn it. After that it’s tough to track.

War Cards: There is a class of card in the game called “War Cards”. They are: Arab-Israeli War, Korean War, Brush War, Indo-Pakistani War, Iran-Iraq War. Note that Arab-Israeli War and Korean War are USSR only, where as the other 3 are neutral (allowing either player to benefit).

They all follow the same rules, which are: Roll 4-6 and you get to take all your opponents influence and replace it with your own. However for each neighbouring country that the defender controls, the attacker gets -1 to the die roll.

Arab-Israeli War notes: This one is particularly bad for the US. If it gets played successfully early enough it can SEVERELY hurt your Middle East presence. Taking control of cheap surrounding countries is advised (but don’t forget about Nasser). Additionally this is the only “War Card” in the game where control of the actual country (namely: Israel) also adds a -1 to the roll. So controlling Lebanon, Jordan and Israel makes it literally impossible for the roll to succeed.

Indo-Pakistani War notes: Whoever ends up controlling Iran needs to be wary when spreading out into Western Asia until this card has been played.

That’s it for now. Note that this is by no means a complete list of all cards that should be tracked. But getting past the Early War things get far more murky. For example, Muslim Revolution can cause a huge swing in the Middle East. But depending on when it comes up (and who draws it) there is a great deal of variability in it’s usage and effectiveness. Since this list is for beginners, I wanted to keep it short, and keep it as simple as possible.


Great TS Site

I wanted to take a quick minute and make sure that anyone who wasn’t already aware of this great site, became aware of it.

Twilight Strategy is a phenomenal site with lots of great strategy points for new players and old. There are both general strategy points and in-depth discussions about specific cards. Itis viagra well written and quite interesting.

I highly recommend giving it a browse!

(Also of note: This site is where I got all my high quality images of TS cards. My scanned versions are not nearly as good)


Twilight Card Math

In preparation for my next recap I had to do a little card math…

I thought some others would be interested in my results. If you have a math degree or a Ph.D feel free to check my math!

So to get down to it… (All calculations include the optional cards)

Early War Cards: 38 cards. 84 ops total. Average ops per card: 2.21
Mid War Cards: 48 cards. 104 ops total. Average ops per card: 2.17
Late War Cards: 23 cards. 62 ops total. Averageops generieke levitra per card: 2.70

Abridged Results (all values approximate):

Average Early War ops / hand: 17.68 ops
Average Mid War ops / hand: 19.62 ops
Average Late War ops / hand: 20.88 ops


Early War: The simplest to calculate. Only the early war cards are in play, they are worth 2.21 each and you get 8 cards. That means an average early war hand is 17.68 ops.

Note that going forward the real values in any given game will change slightly. In particular, discards, how often The China Card is used, Ask Not What Your Country Can Do For You, Our Man In Tehran and others can affect how many cards are left over when the Mid War and Late War cards are shuffled in. I will ignore these effects for the purposes of these calculations. They wouldn’t have a large effect anyways except in extreme situations.

Mid War: There are 22 early war cards left over that get shuffled in with the 48 mid war cards. So 22 cards @ 2.21 ops each + 48 cards @ 2.17 ops each is 152.61 ops total in the newly created 60 card deck. The average value of a card in the mid war will be 2.18. However, from mid war on you get 9 cards instead of 8, bringing your average mid war hand to 19.62 ops.

Note: In turn 7 you get a full reshuffle of all mid and early war cards. So for turn 7 your average card value will skyrocket from 2.18 -> 2.19 per card!! Spend them wisely because Wargames is coming!!!

Late War: There are 68 cards left from mid/early war. 68 cards @ 2.19 ops each + 23 late war cards @ 2.70 each is 210.9 total points in a 91 card deck. The average value of a card in the late war will be 2.32. Thus your average late war hand will have 20.88 ops.


New Blog!

So this is my first ever blog. It’s still a bit rough around the edges but it allows me to do some interesting things with my TS game recaps. Please pardon the rough edges for now…